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Dispatches: It's grim up north... - Tuesday, 9th March 2004


Day's Statistics

Expedition & Environmental Statistics:
Position:82.08.4N 096.33.5E (view route map)
Daily distance:3 nm
Total distance:20.7 nm
Distance to go:887 nm
Travelling time:5.5 hours
Temperature:-33°C
Conditions:Strong southerly winds, whiteout, tentbound
view large image
view large image

Telltale signs you've chosen the wrong holiday destination no. 12: you start using your freshly filled pee bottle as a hand warmer before tipping it away.

The weather in the high Arctic has taken several turns for the worse, and high winds combined with near-zero visibility have forced me to stay put for the day (in a tent that is trying to take off).

All is not lost, however, as the winds have really got the pack ice drifting fast - an incredible 0.8 knots is my current GPS-verified 'in the sleeping bag' speed record. I'd still rather be skiing, though. In the tent, everything that's warm is soaking wet, everything that's cold is frozen solid and each gust of wind showers me with ice from the inside of the fabric.

Today is dedicated to Sir Ranulph Fiennes, who is Mr. Polar to so many proud Brits. Ran's wife Ginny passed away the day that I left the UK and I never had the chance to offer my condolences. I first started hatching polar plans after reading his book 'Mind over matter' and was amazed when he took time to answer a question I sent him via his publishers with a two-page, handwritten letter. The world needs more people like Ran.

My thoughts today are also with Frederic Chamar-Boudet and Dominique Arduin, who both started expeditions at the same time as me, but from land rather than from the safer ice further north. After falling through thin ice, Fred has badly frostbitten hands and feet and is waiting for an evacuation flight. As far as I know, communications with Dominique have been lost. Sometimes the Arctic is the most beautiful place on earth. Others, it's the scariest. I hope more than anything that Fred and Dominique make it home safely.

To end on a cheerful note, apparently a few people have asked what music I listen to up here. A bit of everything is the answer - I have three 512mb mp3 players, with music recorded alphabetically. Yesterday I had A to E on random shuffle, giving bizarre combinations like Coldplay, Aha, DJ Hype, Bob Marley, ACDC and Busta Rhymes. Anything with a good beat that makes me smile, really...

Visitor Comments


# Beauty

Well Ben,
They say there is beuty in everything. May you be blessed with a little bit of beauty every day, and know that there are many folks like me, sitting in the warm comfort of their home, living vicariously through you. Carpe diem!
PS Stay focused. Stay safe. Stay only as long as you must.
Best of luck!

By Cindy on Monday, 15 March - 03:59 am -0800


# Arctic Hum

I just finished reading a book of an explorer that kayaked the Northwest passage. He mentions more than once that on clear, windless days, he could hear this odd humming sound, unique to the arctic areas. As if the ice was singing. It was so loud at times he couldn't sleep. Do you hear anything like this?? It never was explained as to what causes it.

By Bill on Thursday, 11 March - 08:44 am -0800


# Kim Komando told us about your adventure

Hello Ben- Kim Komando told us about your adventure and we have made you a Selected Site We Like. As a proponent of Light and Fast Climbing, we admire your melding of great preparation, great gear and great adventure. Email us from Canada. --Bob Speik, www.TraditionalMountaineering.org

By Robert Speik on Thursday, 11 March - 05:00 am -0800


# the Spirit

I just happened upon your website via a Kim Komando email of "cool" sites to check out and I must say your's has to be the "coolest" to date. I just wanted to pass along my wishes for a safe journey and that you should be praised for the spirit in which you have take on this daunting expedition. May God keep you close in his sight as you gaze upon his wonderful creation in the Artic regions of our blessed world. With deep respect...

By Amazed American on Thursday, 11 March - 03:26 am -0800


# Unbelieveable

Hello from Canada. A friend recommended your website to me and I was in complete amazement. You are a real inspiration. All the best to you, you have a lot of people rooting for you.

By Ally on Thursday, 11 March - 03:26 am -0800


# Little Things Mean A Lot

I was wondering what color the sky is... Do you ever see a rainbow? What is it that makes you smile from deep inside when you see it? What are the little things that make you happy deep within where you are? Makes me think of the saying, "attitude of gratitude." It seems there is always something somewhere to draw strength from. God and His creation is everywhere... Have a good night/day...

By Emma Fontenot on Thursday, 11 March - 03:14 am -0800


# Good Luck from Tennessee

I was reading cnn.com and saw the article about Dominick, which led me to her website, which lead me to thepoles.com which led me to your website and Wave's. Absolutely amazing! I will never complain about being cold again! I wish you good luck and warm wishes!

By Kim Bottoms on Wednesday, 10 March - 10:48 pm -0800


# The best high.

Ben; greetings from B.C.Canada. Overcoming obstacles and achieving your goals has got to be the best high. Thanks for sharing your journey. Love to you. Bonnie

By Bonnie on Wednesday, 10 March - 07:28 pm -0800


# Hands crossed

I've been following your & other's way... now crossed my hands for Dominique. May Good bless you all!

By Prayer from Finland on Wednesday, 10 March - 01:17 pm -0800


# Boo-Yah!

I'm sending you a year's worth of warm. dry body, gear, clothing and camp mixed with sensations of perfectly warmed hot chocolate with creamy marshmallows (interspersed with the perfect amounts of pure, cool water) with your body wrapped in toasty fleecy flannel for perfect rest --while all your being and belongings firmly and calmly stake their ground as nature does what she does all around. Mind over Matter without attachment as to the form of God's perfection. Big breathhhhh!!!

Remain One with the One.

I drew 10 angel cards for the 10th day of March--
Education/Expectancy/Simplicity/Harmony/Synthesis/
Brotherhood/Forgiveness/Surrender/Gratitude/Grace

Flow with the oneness...you be aiiight!

xoxo
Vaya con Dios!
p.s. Llittle glimpse on micro macro...breathe into calmness and become one with nature's breath...which sounds like it's been pretty vicious in your neck of the woods--do your think (hee hee freudian slip...i meant do your thing...but in reality it IS...do your THINK)...flip it with love, appreciation and gentleness. Breathe with your entire being and, go ba-by go go!!

By tess on Wednesday, 10 March - 08:34 am -0800


# You Inspire

The English Teacher and Principal at our school have our students following your progress. you are an inspiration to every kid who ever said "I can't" Our admiration follows your inspiration. Thanks

By Brad Donovan on Wednesday, 10 March - 05:36 am -0800


# Rock On Ben!

I don't know where I'm going
But, I sure know where I've been
Hanging on the promises
In songs of yesterday
An' I've made up my mind,
I ain't wasting no more time
But, here I go again
Here I go again

By Pete on Wednesday, 10 March - 04:34 am -0800


# Keep on Keeping ON!

I will think of you when I start to falter from the goals I've set for myself.
Setting up this website was a great idea. It's good to read about your journey. Good luck and my prayers are with you!

By Kelly Garr on Wednesday, 10 March - 04:04 am -0800


# Stay safe!

And to think I complained like the dickens this winter when it got 10 below!! (Here in Nebraska) I'm thinking of you, stay safe!!

By Jennifer Wachter on Wednesday, 10 March - 02:43 am -0800


# Keep the stiff / frozen upper lip !!

Hello from Tokyo.
You're doing a great job. I'm fascinated with your adventure, and look forward to reading about it every day.
btw, if you can, you should sing along with those songs nobody will notice if you are out of tune.
Take care
Colin

By Colin on Wednesday, 10 March - 02:36 am -0800


# Weather or not...

Hi, Ben
Intrepid! My best wishes during the downtime. Are you reading any books? All the best...
-Scot
San Luis Obispo, Ca.

By Scot Morrison on Wednesday, 10 March - 12:32 am -0800


# Good Luck

Wow! What an amazing feat you are trying to accomplish! I wish you the best and my thoughts and prayers are with you. I have often wondered what it would be like to visit up there just to experience a climate that is severe and (they say) beautiful at the same time. I can't even imagine it! Here in Kentucky everything closes when we get an inch or two of snow!! Good Luck, I am sending warm thoughts your way and will follow your progress.

By Lora on Wednesday, 10 March - 12:00 am -0800


# Hugs to you, my friend!

Ben, just know that I'm thinking positive thoughts for you and sending energy your way. I'm off to India on April 15 and will be back about the time you are done. We'll have to get together for one huge celebration!

Heave ho, amigo,

Carlos

By Carlos Buhler on Tuesday, 9 March - 10:57 pm -0800


# GO BEN!!

Ben, you are an absolutely amazing person and I truly hope you are given the credit due you. I know you will make it.. From Alabama, USA GODSPEED!!!

By Jack LeMar on Tuesday, 9 March - 10:46 pm -0800


# Blues will heat you,,,

Ben,

Hope you have some "warm blues" to listen to while on your journey over ice!,,,pace your self!,,,God will lead you!

SM

By Steve Burke on Tuesday, 9 March - 10:46 pm -0800


# Best Wishes

Best Wishes on your journey! I hope you complete your mission and return to your warm home and your family.

By Kate on Tuesday, 9 March - 10:05 pm -0800


# 2 Brian

I think there is another val in alaska. Because our val is back in london

By Ana on Tuesday, 9 March - 08:56 pm -0800


# why

dear ben,
i'll be praying for you, and i'll be reading your dispatches.
i just have one question, what made you decide to take on such a trip, and please don't give me the because it has never been done reason, that reason to me is really worn out.

By lynda on Tuesday, 9 March - 08:26 pm -0800


# Greetings from Haines

Ben, it's great to get an update. I pray for Dominic.

Val - where in alaska are you? I'm rooting from Haines. A balmy 36deg F here.

Oh, and Ben - why didn't you use an iPod? Is the operating temp not low enough?

By brian on Tuesday, 9 March - 08:09 pm -0800


# Ex pipeliner

Having worked in my younger days on the North Slope in Alaska, I know how dangerous and strange the weather can be up there. It can be sunny one minute and all of a sudden a cloud formation would come in and it would be snowing silver dollars. Then it would pass and it would be sunny again. Bears would seem to come out of no where everytime we,d eat lunch outside. They would like to sneak up behind you. Always watch your back and enjoy those sunny times. Try to stay warm and dry. With John Wayne Grit and the Lord on your side. You shall succeed! Your bravery is an insperation to us all. Best Wishes, John in Bonney Lake, Washington USA

By John on Tuesday, 9 March - 07:30 pm -0800


# WOW!

...and I thought cycling from Dallas, TX to Richmond, VA was a feat! Now that I've found this site, I'm keeping up with it. Is there a way that we can see photos from this year's expidition lined up the way we see past expeditions?

Allen

By Allen Harris on Tuesday, 9 March - 07:27 pm -0800


# ARE YOU NUTS??

Are you crazy? Call in an evacuation flight NOW! You'll freeze up there. There are no Wal-Marts or KFCs. You can't relax when you're constantly cold. Why not go to Flordia and take in a good movie?

Seriously tho, I think you're a hell of a guy for trying it. I admire you, and wish you the best of luck. But I still maintain that you're a little crazy. But it's a good crazy. Best of luck with it all. You're one of a kind.

By michael hovis on Tuesday, 9 March - 07:21 pm -0800


# Hello Again from Alaska

Today (10am in Alaska) is 24 degrees and the wind is howling, blowing the fresh snow that came down yesterday and turned into ice crystals during the minus degrees last night. When outside it feels llike needles hitting. I can hardly stand that, can not imagine what it would be like to endure your condidtions today! Remember that you do not need to worry about death for your friends or yourself if you know that they are spending eternity with the Lord. To be absesnt from the body is to be present with the Lord. II Cor 5:8 We continue to pray for you.
Val

By Val on Tuesday, 9 March - 07:16 pm -0800


# The Alchimist.Paulo Coelho

When somebody wants something,the whole universe conspires in their favor.

By Ana on Tuesday, 9 March - 06:45 pm -0800


# Hola from Granada !!!

my mother asks if how many kg have you lost since you left. We have been thinking of you during our walk through "El Albaizin".
We went to the best place for you for your next year expedition.Morcilla and many other fatty delicatessen.I´m going right now straight to the spinning class!!!!
We are all with you !!!
Take care,guapo!!!

By Ana on Tuesday, 9 March - 06:42 pm -0800


# May God Guide You Safely . . .

I still cannot recall how I found your site - but I am totally taken by your efforts and the company you keep, Ben. KUDOS!!!

I am an inventor of many years with a bucket full of designs, prototypes and patents. Typically technical. Should you wish for a device or gizmo for your expeditions - please do jot them down. I'll make them for you.

I will be following your trek and futures from this day on. Let me know how I can help

Continued Success - Ben,

Tom

By Thomas J. Sullivan on Tuesday, 9 March - 06:33 pm -0800


# It's 90 dgrees here

Greetings from Arizona
We are all pulling for you, good luck in your journey.

By Tom DeMassa and 3rd hour biology class on Tuesday, 9 March - 05:55 pm -0800


# You rock!

Best wishes for a safe journey Ben. You must have amazing inner strength. When my little 3 year old boy says his nightly prayers, we now include "Ben in the Artic." Although Artic sounds more like "Oritic," I know God gets the point. :) Be well and know we're all behind you!
Warmly (and I mean it...),
Kim
P.S. It's going to be 92 degrees today where I live in Phoenix.

By Kim Komando on Tuesday, 9 March - 04:27 pm -0800


# Thoughts

This is certainly "a road less travelled by". Lines of that poem have been accompanying thoughts of you. One ahead of the other...G

By George Fudge on Tuesday, 9 March - 03:48 pm -0800


# Find the FORCE

CATCH THE FORCE AND WORK IT!

Yes, you heard. . .find the force and make it work for you today. My thoughts are with you. I'm including a poem from a friend of mine. . .
Cissy (Texas)
TO SNOW

I'd like to write an ode to snow
'cause it's such wondrous stuff.
From blizzard when the wind doth blow
To sometimes just white fluff.

It caps majestic mountain peaks
We see from miles away.
It melts and fills the empty creeks
That run down to the bay.

It puts a blanket on the slopes
For those who like to ski.
Snow covered fields with antelopes,
Oh, what a sight to see.

When it snows, we'll build a snowman.
That is always fun.
But sometimes it's a snow woman
Don't know until we're done.

A snowball fight - yes, that's a must.
"Look out! Here is comes!"
"Ha, ha, you missed but only just,
But I won't, you bums."

Don't get much snow around these parts.
Yes, here it's very rare.
So when a little flurry starts,
It makes us stop and stare.

We pray each year that it will snow
And make our Christmas white.
That isn't likely. This we know,
But we still hope it might.

Gene Shields - January 15, 2004 - 168 words

By Cissy on Tuesday, 9 March - 03:21 pm -0800


# Frederic has been rescued

Ben, in case you have not heard, Fred has been rescued. Search for Dominic will resume in better light. Fingers crossed fo her. Helenx

By Helen Haile on Tuesday, 9 March - 02:53 pm -0800

Dispatches Archive


The following dispatches are an archive spanning the 4-5 months that Ben spent prior to the expedition, the expedition itself, and the returning home period.


Perspective

Perspective - Sunday, 7th March 2004

A really tough, soul-searching day, for a number of reasons. The ice conditions are ok, with a mixture of recently frozen leads, 'rubble' ice and a few big pressure ridges. The weather's pretty good too, although it feels colder today. The physical ...read more

Demolition man

Demolition man - Monday, 8th March 2004

I keep breaking things - my ski skins are coming loose, I've torn part of my left boot off, broken my sleeping bag zip and bent a tent peg. And I'm only on day bloomin' four... A tough day today (can you spot a recurring theme here?) and a hard ...read more

It's grim up north...

It's grim up north... - Tuesday, 9th March 2004

Telltale signs you've chosen the wrong holiday destination no. 12: you start using your freshly filled pee bottle as a hand warmer before tipping it away. The weather in the high Arctic has taken several turns for the worse, and high winds ...

Oh what a night!

Oh what a night! - Wednesday, 10th March 2004

I'm writing this at the end of day two stuck in the tent. The bad weather seems to have blown over and I'm revving up for a good day on the ice tomorrow... Last night was unreal - the kind of weather I'd expect in Antarctica rather than up here - ...read more

Whiteout

Whiteout - Thursday, 11th March 2004

No easy miles today. Things started out looking good, but within an hour the headwind had started (frozen face and drifting backwards) and the cloud had descended. I could hardly see a thing. Fun fun fun. Swearing into my iced up face mask, I ...read more

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“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.” - T.S. Eliot